{"id":561,"date":"2019-01-26T04:38:27","date_gmt":"2019-01-26T01:38:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/?p=561"},"modified":"2021-02-12T12:40:38","modified_gmt":"2021-02-12T09:40:38","slug":"pers-tarihinde-uc-adim","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/pers-tarihinde-uc-adim\/","title":{"rendered":"Pers tarihinde \u00fc\u00e7 ad\u0131m"},"content":{"rendered":"

06.01.2019 H\u00fcrriyet Gazetesi – Nedim G\u00fcrsel<\/strong><\/p>\n

D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en k\u00f6kl\u00fc medeniyetlerinden kom\u015fumuz \u0130ran\u2019\u0131 kar\u0131\u015f kar\u0131\u015f dola\u015ft\u0131m. Tahran\u2019dan \u015eiraz\u2019a, Mese\u2019den \u0130sfahan\u2019a \u00fclkenin k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ve tarihsel miras\u0131n\u0131n pe\u015fine d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm. Bana g\u00f6re bu k\u00f6kl\u00fc k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7an \u00fc\u00e7 anahtar var. \u0130ran\u2019\u0131 anlatan kitab\u0131m yay\u0131mlanmadan \u00f6nce bu \u00fc\u00e7 anahtar\u0131 \u00f6nce H\u00fcrriyet Seyahat okurlar\u0131yla payla\u015f\u0131yorum. A\u00e7\u0131lacak kap\u0131dan bakmadan \u00fclkeye dair ne s\u00f6ylerseniz s\u00f6yleyin eksik kalacakt\u0131r.
\nPersepolis, \u015eahn\u00e2me\u2019deki efsanevi h\u00fck\u00fcmdarlardan en g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fcs\u00fcne at\u0131fla \u015eiraz\u2019\u0131n 57 kilometre kuzeydo\u011fusunda, Merdev\u015ft Ovas\u0131\u2019na h\u00e2kim kayal\u0131k bir tepenin (Kuh-i Rahmet) yamac\u0131na yerle\u015fim alan\u0131 olarak de\u011fil, Ahameni\u015f \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun t\u00f6ren mek\u00e2n\u0131 olarak I. Darius taraf\u0131ndan kurulmu\u015f. Tarihi \u0130\u00d6 518\u2019e dek gidiyor. Sit alan\u0131n\u0131n i\u00e7inde saraylar ve krallar\u0131n harem daireleri de var ama Persepolis\u2019in belli ba\u015fl\u0131 yap\u0131lar\u0131 kabul t\u00f6renlerinde kullan\u0131lmak \u00fczere tasarlanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Yang\u0131n ve y\u0131k\u0131m\u0131n, B\u00fcy\u00fck \u0130skender\u2019in \u0130\u00d6 330\u2019da kenti ya\u011fmalay\u0131p hazinelerine el koyarak yakmas\u0131n\u0131n ard\u0131ndan geriye I. Darius\u2019un ve o\u011flu Kserkses ile torunu Artakserkses\u2019in buyruklar\u0131n\u0131 i\u00e7eren tabletler, hatta duvarlara kaz\u0131nm\u0131\u015f \u00e7ivi yaz\u0131lar\u0131 kalm\u0131\u015f ama kabartmalar\u0131n \u00e7ok daha etkileyici, hatta \u015fa\u015f\u0131rt\u0131c\u0131 oldu\u011funu belirtmeliyim.<\/p>\n

Bunlar genelde te\u015frifat\u00e7\u0131lar e\u015fli\u011finde kabul t\u00f6renlerine hediyeleriyle gelen yabanc\u0131 heyetleri ve onlar\u0131, ard\u0131nda ayakta duran veliaht prensle kabul eden, taht\u0131na heybetle kurulmu\u015f kral\u0131 tasvir ediyorlar. \u00d6ylesine ilgin\u00e7 ayr\u0131nt\u0131lara sahipler ki, bir dizi film ya da \u00e7izgi roman \u00f6rne\u011fi g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcnde resmige\u00e7it yapan fig\u00fcrlerin \u00e7ekimine kap\u0131lmamak elde de\u011fil. Asker ya da n\u00f6bet\u00e7ilerin ellerinde m\u0131zrak, s\u0131rtlar\u0131nda ok torbalar\u0131yla dik duru\u015flar\u0131, uzun ve k\u0131v\u0131rc\u0131k sakallar\u0131, kulaklar\u0131nda k\u00fcpeleri ve ba\u015flar\u0131ndaki k\u00fclah ya da takkeleriyle soylular\u0131n kral\u0131 selamlay\u0131\u015flar\u0131, Anadolu devletleri de dahil Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun tam 32 eyaletinden gelen heyetlerin krala sunduklar\u0131 \u00e7e\u015fitli hediyelerle hayvanlar ve bitkiler, \u00f6zellikle de servi ve lotus fig\u00fcrleri bir de\u011fil bin bir \u00f6yk\u00fc anlat\u0131yor izleyene.<\/p>\n

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Merdivenlerden \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p \u2018T\u00fcm Uluslar Kap\u0131s\u0131\u2019 diye adland\u0131r\u0131lan ve iki yan\u0131nda kanatl\u0131 bo\u011falar u\u00e7an kap\u0131dan ge\u00e7tikten sonra kabul saray\u0131 Apadanaya y\u00f6nelen heyetlerin aras\u0131nda sivri k\u00fcl\u00e2hlar\u0131, atlar\u0131, halka ve kamalar\u0131yla \u0130skitler, bizim oralardan gelen Lidyal\u0131lar ve sepetleri alt\u0131n e\u015fyayla dolu \u0130nduslular dikkat \u00e7ekiyor. G\u00f6zden ka\u00e7mayan bir uyum var aralar\u0131nda. Ger\u00e7ekte \u015fiddetin egemen oldu\u011fu bir \u00e7a\u011fday\u0131z ama Persepolis\u2019in kabartmalar\u0131nda insanlar dost, kral zinde ve g\u00fc\u00e7l\u00fc, devlete zeval veren yok. Y\u0131k\u0131m ve sava\u015f tasvirleri, zincire vurulmu\u015f tutsaklar, yerde yuvarlanan kafalar da yok. Bar\u0131\u015f ve karde\u015fli\u011fin, dayan\u0131\u015fma ve anla\u015fman\u0131n h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc bir \u00fclkedeyiz. G\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015fe bak\u0131l\u0131rsa herkes i\u00e7inde bulundu\u011fu konumun bilincinde ve mutlu! El ele tutu\u015fanlar birbirleriyle dost ve uyumlu. Hatta sevecen. Bu fig\u00fcrlerin, bakmas\u0131n\u0131 bilene, Pers \u0130mparatorlu\u011fu\u2019nun geni\u015f co\u011frafyas\u0131nda o d\u00f6neme ait giyim ku\u015fam, inan\u00e7 ve y\u00f6netim tarz\u0131, siyasal ve toplumsal durum hakk\u0131nda ilk elden \u00f6nemli bilgiler sundu\u011funu s\u00f6yleyebiliriz.<\/p>\n

Irma\u011f\u0131n\u0131 yitiren kent ya da d\u00fcnyan\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131<\/p>\n

Br\u00fcksel\u2019in bir zamanlar liman oldu\u011funu, sanayile\u015fme s\u00fcrecinde \u0131rma\u011f\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6merek deniz ve suyla ili\u015fkisini kesti\u011fini \u00f6\u011frenince \u00e7ok \u015fa\u015f\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m. Oradan uzak bir co\u011frafyada kurulmu\u015f Isfahan da, \u0131rma\u011f\u0131n\u0131 b\u00fcsb\u00fct\u00fcn g\u00f6mmemi\u015f olsa bile, onu yitirmi\u015f durumda. Kendine \u00f6zg\u00fc mimarisiyle \u2018Otuz \u00dc\u00e7 Kemerli K\u00f6pr\u00fc\u2019 ba\u015fta olmak \u00fczere kentin t\u00fcm k\u00f6pr\u00fclerinden a\u015fa\u011f\u0131ya bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131zda, kurumu\u015f nehir yata\u011f\u0131ndan ba\u015fka bir \u015fey g\u00f6remiyorsunuz. Irmak denize ula\u015famadan \u00e7\u00f6lde kay\u0131plara kar\u0131\u015f\u0131yor, \u00f6zellikle k\u0131\u015f aylar\u0131nda kentin ortas\u0131ndan akacak yerde, baraj i\u015flevi de g\u00f6ren k\u00f6pr\u00fclerin dibindeki kuyulara birikiyor.<\/p>\n

Isfahan\u2019\u0131n k\u00f6pr\u00fcleri de hem olmayan \u0131rma\u011f\u0131n iki yakas\u0131n\u0131 birbirine ba\u011fl\u0131yor hem de baraj i\u015flevini yerine getiriyor. \u0130\u00e7lerinden en \u00fcnl\u00fcs\u00fc Otuz \u00dc\u00e7 Kemer K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc. Bu k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn bir ad\u0131 da Allahverdi… Asl\u0131nda Allah vermemi\u015f elbette, i\u015f\u00e7iler emek ve al\u0131n teriyle in\u015fa etmi\u015fler onu, hatta Balkanlar\u2019da oldu\u011fu gibi harc\u0131na kan da kar\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Ama \u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n komutanlar\u0131ndan Allahverdi Han taraf\u0131ndan 1602 y\u0131l\u0131nda yapt\u0131r\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in bu isimle de an\u0131l\u0131yor. Ve \u0131rmak yata\u011f\u0131na bakan cephelerindeki kemerli odalar\u0131, ta\u015f ve tu\u011fla kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131 mimarisiyle, bug\u00fcne dek g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm ba\u015fka hi\u00e7bir k\u00f6pr\u00fcye de benzemiyor.<\/p>\n

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D\u00fcnyan\u0131n s\u00fcs\u00fc<\/p>\n

Tarihi \u00e7ok eskilere giden Isfahan, Savafiler d\u00f6neminde bir s\u00fcre \u0130ran\u2019\u0131n ba\u015fkenti olmu\u015f. \u2018B\u00fcy\u00fck Abbas\u2019 l\u00e2kapl\u0131 \u015eah Abbas\u2019\u0131n h\u00fck\u00fcmdarl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda geli\u015fip serpilmi\u015f, yaln\u0131zca k\u00f6pr\u00fcleriyle de\u011fil saray ve mescitleriyle, \u00f6zellikle de \u00fcnl\u00fc Nak\u015f-\u0131 Cihan Alan\u0131\u2019n\u0131n g\u00f6rkemli mimarisiyle \u00fclkenin tarihsel miras\u0131na damgas\u0131n\u0131 vurmu\u015f. Bu alan, s\u00f6ylenenlere bak\u0131l\u0131rsa, d\u00fcnyan\u0131n ikinci b\u00fcy\u00fck alan\u0131… 1598-1629 y\u0131llar\u0131 aras\u0131nda yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u0130ki katl\u0131, kemerli d\u00fckk\u00e2nlarla \u00e7evrili ama mek\u00e2na as\u0131l ki\u015filik kazand\u0131ran, \u015eah Mescidi\u2019yle Ali Kap\u0131 Saray\u0131. Her iki yap\u0131n\u0131n da \u0130ran mimarisinde \u00f6nemli bir yeri var. Alan\u0131n g\u00fcneyinde yer alan, eski ad\u0131yla \u015eah Mescidi, \u0130slam devriminden sonraki ad\u0131yla \u0130mam Mescidi, g\u00fcldeste \u00e7ift minaresi, mavi \u00e7inilerle s\u00fcsl\u00fc, g\u00f6ky\u00fcz\u00fcnden inmi\u015f izlenimi uyand\u0131ran kubbesi ve i\u00e7indeki \u00e7ini i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011finin e\u015fsiz \u00f6rnekleriyle mutlaka g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken bir yap\u0131. Isfahan\u2019da \u2018K\u0131rk S\u00fctunlu Saray\u2019 diye bilinen ama asl\u0131nda yaln\u0131zca 20 s\u00fctundan ibaret (Bunlar bah\u00e7edeki havuza yans\u0131y\u0131nca 40 oluyor). 1647\u2019de \u015eah II. Abbas taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lan saray\u0131n duvar ve tavan s\u00fcslemelerinde \u00c7ald\u0131ran Sava\u015f\u0131\u2019n\u0131 tasvir eden devasa bir resim var.<\/p>\n

K\u0131rk S\u00fctunlu Saray\u2019\u0131n duvar s\u00fcslemelerinde sava\u015f sahnelerinden \u00e7ok a\u015fka d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f bir \u00e7iftin durumu daha fazla dikkatimi \u00e7ekti. K\u00f6kleri topra\u011f\u0131n derinliklerine giden, kal\u0131n g\u00f6vdeli, dall\u0131 budakl\u0131 bir a\u011fac\u0131n g\u00f6lgesine uzanm\u0131\u015flar. Bir ba\u015fka resimdeyse portakal ya da nar a\u011fac\u0131n\u0131n g\u00f6lgesine serili kilimin \u00fczerine uzanm\u0131\u015f gen\u00e7 kad\u0131n yaln\u0131zd\u0131. Klasik Fars \u015fiirinden a\u015fina oldu\u011fumuz yuvarlac\u0131k, ay y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fcn d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda her yeri kapal\u0131yd\u0131 ama yine de derin bir \u015fehvet duygusuna yol a\u00e7\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n

Bu al\u00e7akg\u00f6n\u00fcll\u00fc, minyat\u00fcrleri \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015ft\u0131ran, iddias\u0131z gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnen ama son derece g\u00fczel resimlerin b\u00fcy\u00fcs\u00fcne kap\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131 itiraf etmeliyim. \u0130ran\u2019da geli\u015fen minyat\u00fcr gelene\u011fi fig\u00fcratif resme d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcrken ne yaz\u0131k ki Osmanl\u0131\u2019da ayn\u0131 evrim ger\u00e7ekle\u015fmedi. Daha do\u011frusu \u00e7ok daha ge\u00e7 ger\u00e7ekle\u015fti. Bunu yaln\u0131zca \u0130sfahan\u2019\u0131n de\u011fil Tahran\u2019\u0131n saraylar\u0131n\u0131 gezerken de hay\u0131fla g\u00f6zlemledim.
\nIsfahan\u2019da bu kenti \u00f6ven bir deyim \u00f6\u011frendim: \u201c\u0130sfahan, nifs-e Cihan\u201d (\u0130sfahan d\u00fcnyan\u0131n yar\u0131s\u0131d\u0131r). Bu benzersiz kentin g\u00f6r\u00fclecek nice g\u00fczellikler var daha. Ben, \u0130sfahan\u2019da bir g\u00fcn daha kal\u0131p bir \u2018Zerd\u00fc\u015ft\u2019 tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ziyaret ettim.<\/p>\n

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Binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r s\u00f6nmeyen ate\u015f<\/p>\n

\u0130ran teokratik bir devlet, ne var ki t\u00fcm inan\u00e7lar anayasal g\u00fcvence alt\u0131nda. Bunlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda Zerd\u00fc\u015ft dini \u00e7ok \u00f6zel bir yere sahip, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc \u0130slamiyet\u2019ten \u00f6nce bu din \u00fclkenin resmi dini konumundaym\u0131\u015f. \u2018Ate\u015fkede\u2019 denilen tap\u0131nak herkese a\u00e7\u0131k de\u011fil, tarihin \u00e7ok eski d\u00f6nemlerinden bu yana hi\u00e7 s\u00f6nmeden yanan kutsal ate\u015fin mek\u00e2n\u0131na girebilmek i\u00e7in \u00f6zel izin gerekiyor. Bu izni ald\u0131ktan sonra rehberim \u2018\u015eahzade\u2019yle birlikte, hayal etti\u011fim gibi kentin kenar mahallelerinde de\u011fil neredeyse merkezindeki tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n zilini \u00e7ald\u0131k. Kap\u0131y\u0131 tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n bek\u00e7isi, Zerd\u00fc\u015ft rahibi Behzad Nikdin a\u00e7t\u0131. Tepeden t\u0131rna\u011fa beyazlar giyinmi\u015f, ba\u015f\u0131na da, yine beyaz bir takke oturtmu\u015ftu. G\u00fcler y\u00fczl\u00fc, pos b\u0131y\u0131kl\u0131, gen\u00e7 ve yak\u0131\u015f\u0131kl\u0131yd\u0131.<\/p>\n

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Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fck, Eski M\u0131s\u0131r\u2019da Akhenaton\u2019un k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre i\u00e7in dayatt\u0131\u011f\u0131 Aton inanc\u0131n\u0131 saymazsak, insanl\u0131k tarihinin ilk tek tanr\u0131l\u0131 dini. Bu nedenle g\u00fcn\u00fcm\u00fczdeki \u00fc\u00e7 semavi dini etkiledi\u011fi s\u00f6ylenebilir. Zerd\u00fc\u015ftl\u00fckteki Ahura Mazda da Allah gibi tek, evrenin yarat\u0131c\u0131s\u0131 ve her \u015feyin sahibi, bilen ve her \u015feye kadir y\u00fcce varl\u0131k. Spenta Mainyu\u2019da cisim bulan ruhu ayd\u0131nl\u0131k ve iyili\u011fin temsilcisi olarak Ehrimen\u2019le, yani karanl\u0131k ve k\u00f6t\u00fcl\u00fc\u011f\u00fcn temsilcisiyle s\u00fcrekli \u00e7at\u0131\u015fma halinde. Zerd\u00fc\u015ftler bu \u00e7at\u0131\u015fman\u0131n sonunda iyili\u011fin galip gelece\u011fine inan\u0131yor. Ve s\u00f6ylenildi\u011finin aksine ate\u015fe de\u011fil \u0131\u015f\u0131\u011fa, yani g\u00fcne\u015fe tap\u0131yorlar.<\/p>\n

Tap\u0131na\u011f\u0131n orta yerindeki bir camek\u00e2n\u0131n i\u00e7inde yanan ate\u015fi g\u00f6steren rahip Behzad \u201cDinimizde ate\u015f kutsald\u0131r, ama biz ate\u015fe tapmay\u0131z\u201d dedi ve ekledi: \u201cK\u0131blemiz g\u00fcne\u015ftir bizim.\u201d Tap\u0131nakta binlerce y\u0131ld\u0131r yanan, hava, su ve toprak kadar temiz, s\u00f6nmemesi i\u00e7in Zerd\u00fc\u015ftlerin b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00e7aba g\u00f6sterdikleri, fedak\u00e2rl\u0131klara katland\u0131klar\u0131 kutsal ate\u015f yoktu yaln\u0131zca, peygamberlerinin vaazlar\u0131n\u0131 ve ba\u015f\u0131ndan ge\u00e7enleri tasvir eden resimlerle Faravahar\u2019\u0131n heykelleri de vard\u0131. Rahip, Zerd\u00fc\u015ft dininin \u00fc\u00e7 temel ilkesini \u015f\u00f6yle \u00f6zetledi bize: \u201c\u0130yi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn, iyi s\u00f6yle, iyi davran.\u201d D\u0131\u015far\u0131ya \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda g\u00fcne\u015f tepemizdeydi. S\u00f6nmeyen ate\u015fse tertemiz, saydam ve zarars\u0131zd\u0131. Hatta \u00fc\u015f\u00fct\u00fcc\u00fcyd\u00fc.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

06.01.2019 H\u00fcrriyet Gazetesi – Nedim G\u00fcrsel D\u00fcnyan\u0131n en k\u00f6kl\u00fc medeniyetlerinden kom\u015fumuz \u0130ran\u2019\u0131 kar\u0131\u015f kar\u0131\u015f dola\u015ft\u0131m. Tahran\u2019dan \u015eiraz\u2019a, Mese\u2019den \u0130sfahan\u2019a \u00fclkenin k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn ve tarihsel miras\u0131n\u0131n pe\u015fine d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcm. Bana g\u00f6re bu k\u00f6kl\u00fc k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn kap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 a\u00e7an \u00fc\u00e7 anahtar var. \u0130ran\u2019\u0131 anlatan kitab\u0131m yay\u0131mlanmadan \u00f6nce bu \u00fc\u00e7 anahtar\u0131 \u00f6nce H\u00fcrriyet Seyahat okurlar\u0131yla payla\u015f\u0131yorum. A\u00e7\u0131lacak kap\u0131dan bakmadan \u00fclkeye dair ne […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_uf_show_specific_survey":0,"_uf_disable_surveys":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[75],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-561","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-press"],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561\/"}],"collection":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/"}],"about":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post\/"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1\/"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments\/?post=561"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561\/revisions\/"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":729,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/561\/revisions\/729\/"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/?parent=561"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories\/?post=561"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"http:\/\/www.shahzadehigual.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags\/?post=561"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}